Free wheeling on the Erie = Canal

September = 18,=20 2008

Since I was 12 years old, no mode of transportation = has=20 signaled freedom to me more than a bicycle.

Now, as a retired environmental lawyer from BP, I = heard=20 freedom call once again, this time to the Erie Canal, = not far=20 from Endicott, N.Y., my old stomping grounds in = upstate New=20 York.

=BB Click=20 to enlarge image

Ron Ganim of Glenview relaxes at = an=20 abandoned Erie Canal lock during his week-long bicycle = trip.=20
(Photo by Ron Ganim) =

=BB Click=20 to enlarge image

Working locks on the Erie Canal = at=20 Lockport, N.Y.
(Photo by Ron = Ganim)=20

=BB Click=20 to enlarge image

Erie Canal parallels the Mohawk = River and=20 in the past, crossed it via aqueducts.
(Photo by Ron Ganim)

PHOTO GALLERY

=95 Along=20 the Erie Canal

After reading that you could bike along the canal, = I did=20 some research online and found the guidebook Cycling = the Erie=20 Canal, published by Parks & Trails New York. It = contains=20 detailed maps of the 380-mile trip, along with bed and = breakfasts, motels, things to see and do and a crucial = list of=20 bicycle repair shops along the way.

The Erie Canal is steeped in early American history = but=20 lives on as a nautical wonder linking Buffalo to = Albany.

Today it handles mostly pleasure craft, but once it = was the=20 key to linking New York Harbor to the Great Lakes, = with mules=20 pulling barges traveling in both directions. = Fortunately for=20 the bicyclist, the old tow path is still there, = converted to a=20 multiuse trail.

Bargaining with Boris =

So I left Glenview for Buffalo on July 9. Here's = the story=20 of my trip that I shared with family and friends from = my=20 BlackBerry.

I parked my car for two weeks in a dingy, old = garage in=20 downtown Buffalo run by a wily Russian immigrant named = Boris.=20 He wanted $85; we settled on $60 -- I hope the car's = there=20 when I return.

New York does not mark its trails well; you only = know where=20 you are when you're on them, so I found myself getting = lost.=20 Nonetheless, I'd have time to notice the sights.

Some of the canal is elevated above grade. Old = bridges=20 cross it every few miles and there are interesting old = structures along the way. Lockport, with its working = locks, is=20 a sight to see. The canal shouldn't be there; in some = places=20 cornfields stretch away to the horizon on both sides. =

One day it rained all morning. I spent about 45 = minutes=20 under a railroad bridge at the start hoping it would = let up,=20 but no luck. I learned the difference between clothing = that is=20 "water resistant" and "waterproof."

When the clouds lifted, I saw the canal festooned = with=20 blue, white, yellow and lavender wildflowers. All the = while I=20 was passing large earthen mounds where (the canal's = builders)=20 deposited excavated materials, and numerous borrow = pits where=20 they took soil to build up the canal walls.

There are big gaps in the canal trail where you're = directed=20 to a country road. The trail's advantages are that = it's flat,=20 often shaded and scenic. But it's tough to get any = speed on=20 the mostly crushed rock surface. The road is faster = but there=20 are hills to navigate and zero shade. I spent most of = another=20 day on a road in the sun. At one point my bike = computer hit=20 102 degrees.

Hit the road

Periodically on the canal there are huge, suspended = iron=20 walls, which look like they can be lowered into the = canal,=20 sealing it. I understand how locks work but I'm = puzzled about=20 what these are for.

Around Weedsport the original canal peters out. = It's still=20 there, but it becomes an algae-choked bog. In some = places it=20 is entirely filled in, covered in a carpet of lush = lawns.

It rained again, this time in buckets.

I found my motel, Graziano's (Rocky's cousin), in = Canastota=20 just as the thunder started to build. I was soaked and = glad I=20 had planned a shorter ride.

I like the time on my bike the best. The canal has = become=20 my friend. I know this because when I lose it, I panic = -- but=20 linking up with the trail again, I feel genuine = relief.

Riding high

The trail passes a number of locks and differences = in=20 elevation are often startling. In other places, they = built the=20 canal aqueduct-style, carrying it over an existing = river.=20 There's also more than one canal here as the original = route=20 was subsequently upgraded.

Most of the downtown areas of canal towns look = economically=20 distressed.

The trail improves east of Herkimer; half of it is = paved,=20 the rest is packed, crushed limestone. It is also well = marked,=20 wide and straight.

I met a guy on his way to California. He's covering = 100-plus miles a day; my rate is 55-60, averaging = about 10.5=20 miles an hour -- I'm definitely not Tour de France = material.=20 But that's OK; I like to linger awhile picking = blackberries=20 along the trail as I go.

A friend e-mailed me with the answer to my iron = wall=20 mystery. Seems that the canal was designed so that if = a lock=20 failed, instead of emptying the Niagara River into the = Hudson,=20 they would lower these iron walls to stop the flow -- = as giant=20 block valves.

On the trail this morning, a muskrat ran into my = front tire=20 as he tried to cross the path. I don't think I hurt = him -- he=20 bounced off -- and scampered into the bushes.

The bikeway goes right through the heart of the = Stockade=20 District of Schenectady, an area graced with lovely, = old=20 homes. I passed a lot of GE facilities; Edison got his = start=20 here.

The trail is paved most of the way to Albany, = hugging the=20 Hudson for the last 10 miles. It was a beautiful = summer day to=20 wrap things up.

After several days with family in Saratoga Springs, = I=20 rented a car at the Albany airport and dropped it off = in=20 Buffalo. To my great relief, my car was just where I = had left=20 it in Boris' garage. But wily one that he was, a = verbal volley=20 ensued on renegotiating our original price. I said, = "No dice,"=20 and he gave me the keys. Whew.

' + '

<= /div>' + '

' + '

69°F

' + '

Mostly = Cloudy

' + '

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